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25 Organic Pepper Seeds - Keystone Resistant Giant : Heirloom,Non-GMO

25 Organic Pepper Seeds - Keystone Resistant Giant : Heirloom,Non-GMO


This sweet pepper is a staple in your garden. It's an heirloom, organic, and always non-GMO.


Mosaic resistant, heavy foliage reduces sunscald, break resistant stems. The peppers are 4-lobed and thick-walled - perfect for stuffing! Plants bear heavily, even when under stress. A 'California Wonder' type of pepper with large, blocky, pendant fruit (4" x 4-3/4"). Mosaic resistant. Heavy foliage reduces susceptibility to sunscald. Thick stems are breakage-resistant under heavy fruit load. Widely adapted and well suited to the Mid-Atlantic region but not recommended for deep South.


The breeder and vendor of Keystone Resistant Giant was the Corneli Seed Company, since at least 1954. This open-pollinated bell comes from a cross between California Wonder and a Hungarian cultivar. The “Resistant” part of the name refers to the plant’s resistance to the Tobacco Mosaic Virus.

Keystone Resistant Giant makes a large plant to support its large fruits. Growing bell peppers of any size and wall-thickness is always a challenge in less-than-fertile soil. Yet this variety will impress by the size and quality of the fruits of this variety. Eventually, the deep green flesh gives way to a strong-tasting red fruit. 


Peppers should be started indoors; their seeds are small and need sufficient heat to germinate. Pepper seeds germinate and grow slowly, so plan on starting them at least eight weeks before the weather is settled and the danger of frost has passed in your area.


Sow seeds around ¼ inch apart and ¼ inch deep in shallow flats of seed-starting mix. Keep the mix moist but not wet. Peppers germinate best in warm soil, so use a seedling heat mat to keep the soil temperature between 80°F and 90°F until the seeds sprout. Once your seedlings are up and growing, the temperature can be dropped to 70°F.


Starting peppers close together in shallow flats makes efficient use of precious heat-mat space, but once your peppers get their first true leaves, they’ll need more room to grow. Transplanting to 4-inch pots or 50-cell flats will allow enough room for healthy roots to develop. A compost-based starting mix should provide enough fertility to last four to six weeks. If using a medium with no compost, plan on fertilizing after the first week. Use an organic fish-based fertilizer with moderate nitrogen levels to prevent plants from being overfertilized, or “burned.”

Give plants a gentle landing in the garden


Watch the weather when it’s time to start hardening off your seedlings. Before transplanting, make sure that there’s absolutely no chance of frost, and that nighttime temperatures are reasonably warm and stable. Bring flats outside during the day and back inside at night for at least the first few days. After three to four days, you can leave the plants out overnight, as long as the temperature is not expected to fall below 40°F.


Ideally, the plants will have a few unopened buds when you set them out. If there are open flowers or small fruits, remove them before transplanting. The goal is for the plants to use their energy to grow big and produce a good crop. Seedlings transplanted with fruits may put too much energy into the early fruits at the expense of overall yield.


Once the danger of frost has passed, transplant your peppers 12 to 18 inches apart in rows 24 to 36 inches apart. Immediately water the seedlings with a high-phosphorous, organically approved, fish-based fertilizer solution to reduce transplant shock and get them off to a good start. I like Neptune’s Harvest, which has an NPK ratio of 2-4-1.


Since peppers are a heat-loving crop, growers in cool climates often plant through agricultural plastic and cover the plants with floating row covers supported by wire hoops. The wire hoops are important; pepper flowers grow on the outer edges of the plants, and if hoops are not used, the flowers can be damaged by the row cover on windy days. Plastic mulch and row covers result in faster growth and earlier crops. Remove the row covers when daytime temperatures reach 85°F to prevent blossom drop.


Fertile, well-irrigated soils are best for peppers, but excessive nitrogen can cause plants to produce lots of leafy growth and very few fruits. While it is not always necessary to stake peppers, be aware that unstaked plants may lodge (lie on the ground), putting fruits in contact with soil or mulch, where they are more susceptible to rot (above). Fruits on lodged plants also will be exposed to the sun, increasing the likelihood of sunscald. If a plant falls down, stake it as soon as possible, and it should be fine.


Do not let your pepper plants go too long without water, especially while fruits are developing. During dry periods, irrigate weekly to keep soil moisture levels relatively constant. Drip irrigation is an efficient way to supply water, and it keeps leaves dry, reducing the likelihood of foliar disease.

  • Gifts and Shipping

    **Free Gift With Order** Free Surprise seed packet with every order!

    Seeds will be shipped through the regular mail using USPS and will not include tracking. We try to have germination instructions on all of our listings, though additional online researching is advised. We are not responsible for buyer germination success; seeds have been tested. Seed count is approximate, and packaged by weight. Seeds vary in size, weight is exact, and based upon empirical count, quantity is estimated. Liability of seller is limited to the cost of the item(s).

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